...I can get to the heart of all cities of the world. - James Joyce
For the second week long break (yes, my school gives me two designated times to go travel crazy), I explored the British Isle. Making stops at Dublin, Cork, and London, I have so much to say and I'll start with, I can't wait to go back and to see more. (Scotland and Wales, I'm comin' for you someday!)
So, first and foremost, let's talk about my trip to Dublin. It's the capital and its largest city, with one million people. I didn't realize just how small Ireland was, nor most of its fascinating history.
Thanks to the great foodie research of Adrienne and Mac's friend from home Jen, our first dinner was a roaring success at Cornucopia, an all-veggie, organic restaurant right off the main pedestrian street.
feeling almost nostalgic for my former vegetarian days...
I ordered cauliflower stuffed in phyllo dough with a spinach sauce (pictured at bottom right), along with a cup of split pea soup and fresh squeezed juice. Not your typical Irish food, but definitely a great reminder of the food of northern California. Everything was delicious! So delicious, in fact, that we came back for brunch before our walking tour the next morning.
coffee, with soy milk!
Mac and her blueberry pancakes
After this last trip, I have now been on four New Europe walking tours, and I can say with confidence that Dublin was my absolute favorite. There is something to be said for getting a local as your tour guide, especially a cynical, sarcastic Irish woman named Ursula. Mac said she sounded just like me, but I only aspire to be as quippy as her!
inside Dublin's city hall
Adrienne having to recreate a viking hut sleeping situation
just a little yummy treat!
apple scone before the Guinness tour
After the walking tour, Mac, Adrienne, and I headed to the Guinness Storehouse for a tour of how they brew. Being in Italy (and also having taken a winemaking class), we are no strangers to the winemaking process - we drink enough to inquire about some knowledge. But before this experience, we didn't know too much about making beer. That's actually an understatement in my case. I knew two things: the word 'hops' and that the stuff you play beer pong with is made badly.
All that changed, however, after this. Okay, that's not true. I'm not suddenly an expert, and I hardly think I will be brewing some master quality beer anytime soon. But I do understand the process now, and more importantly, what makes a Guinness a Guinness and why a Guinness is so good.
(What's that? you ask. Can't tell ya, trade secret. You'll have to come to Dublin.)
The three of us hurried back to downtown to meet Jen and her friend Allyson at The Pig's Ear, our dinner destination. They did a special with two courses for a set price - I chose salmon and beet risotto. Unfortunately, the lighting was extra terribly bad, so no photos. But the food was better than I could have imagined, especially that risotto. Must learn to replicate!
Our last day in Dublin was actually spent outside of Dublin. The five of us, plus more from my Rome program, loaded up onto a coach bus for a wild Wicklow tour! This took us into the countryside surrounding Dublin, and we saw the tower where James Joyce wrote Ulysses, one of the last remaning monastic sites, traditional Irish lunch, and some of the greenest and greatest rolling hills ever.
for scale purposes!
we also stopped at Avoca, a bakery, eatery, and cute shop all in one - food heaven
I need to wear this around my neck
too overwhelmed by all the food choices, ended up with a mini loaf of fresh warm bread
lovely ladies in the country!
so cold that our guide broke out the Jameson for a celebratory warm-you-up shot!
Guinness stew for lunch - hearty and filling
these old monumental sites are nothing like Rome and a welcome change for the eyes
When we returned, our final to do was the annual Bram Stoker festival. If you didn't know, Stoker was born in Dublin and was, of course, the author of Dracula. So Halloween is a pretty big deal here. Halloween is also a pretty big deal in my life and there has not been one iota of its mention in Rome, so being at an entire festival dedicated to the spooky scary was right up my alley.
The grand finale was dinner at Bite, an adorable restaurant with some of the most flavorful food I have ever had. I don't think I've ever heard the words "try this!" thrown around so much at one table. I ordered creamy pumpkin soup and garlic and chili broccoli, as well as sharing an order of truffle and parmesan fries with Adrienne. Mac's hake was mouthwatering, as was her duck fat fries. It was a flavor collision of the utmost awesomeness, the soup was off the chain, and the broccoli really curbed my craving for some seriously spicy food.
And that is where I leave you, Dublin. With promises to return, hopefully not empty. There were never really any other options besides Rome when it came to studying abroad (I'm a Classics major who studies Latin, the only other place I could go is the Vatican) but now, having been there, I think I could see myself living it up and loving it in Dublin. Big enough to be a city, small enough to be a home. I know I was kind of already thinking of it as such, even after only three days.
Is é do mhac do mhac go bpósann sé ach is í d'iníon go bhfaighidh tú bás, Irish proverb: Your son is your son until he marries, your daughter is your daughter until you die. (you're stuck with me, m+d!)
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